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TD SL60 & SL100 Hand Cutting Consumables
Thermal Dynamics SL60 & SL100 replaceable consumable parts for handheld cutting applications.

Thermal Dynamics SL60 & SL100 Torch Consumables for Hand & Drag Cutting

TD SL60 & SL100 Hand Cutting Consumables FAQs

Practical answers on choosing, fitting and looking after the consumable parts of a handheld 60 to 100 amp class plasma cutting torch.

What is the difference between drag cutting and standoff cutting?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

In standoff cutting you hold the nozzle a set small distance above the metal. In drag cutting a shield or cap rests on the work and you slide the torch along it, which gives a steady height and is easier to control by hand.

The parts differ. Drag parts have a shield designed to take contact, while standoff parts need a gap, which you keep by eye or with a standoff guide. If the gap is too large the arc spreads and loses power, and if too small, molten metal can bridge the nozzle and cause double arcing. Check your manual for the parts and current limits for each method.

What does a standoff guide do?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A standoff guide is a small attachment that fits on the front of the torch and sets the gap between the nozzle and the metal, so you can hold a steady height by resting the guide on the work. It helps with cutting straight lines and with consistent cut quality when hand cutting.

It only suits standoff cutting. Do not use it with parts built for contact drag cutting, because the nozzle would then sit at the wrong height. Check that the guide you order is made for your torch type and the shield you are using.

How do I know the cutting tip is worn?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The tip, also called the nozzle, wears at its centre hole. A wider kerf, a thicker arc, more dross on the underside of the cut and less steady cutting often show that the hole has enlarged or gone out of round. Look at the hole with the parts removed: it should be round and clean.

A tip that is damaged on its face or has had the nozzle touch the work will wear faster. Replace a worn tip rather than carrying on, because poor cuts and extra damage to nearby parts usually follow.

Should I change the electrode and the tip together?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Usually yes. The electrode and tip wear together and the arc passes between them, so worn parts paired with new ones can cut poorly. The electrode has a small insert at its tip that erodes into a pit. When the pit reaches the depth the maker allows, replace the electrode, and replace the tip with it if there are signs of wear or if the maker says so.

Leaving a worn electrode in use can let the arc eat into the copper and damage the tip and torch head. Use the pit depth given in your manual for your torch rather than a generic figure.

How do I match the tip to the current I am cutting at?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Each tip is made for a range of current. The opening size is chosen to suit that range, so use a tip rated for the current you set on the machine. Running more current than the tip is made for wears it out quickly, and using a much larger tip at low current can give an unstable arc.

The tip, and the other parts in the stack, should be the set the maker lists for your current and cutting method. Check the data plate and the consumable chart in the manual before you order.

Does it matter how high I hold the torch?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Yes. The distance between the torch and the work affects both the cut and the life of the parts. Too high a gap spreads the arc and gives a rough, bevelled cut. Too low a gap lets spatter and molten metal reach the tip and shield, which can cause double arcing and wear parts early.

Where your torch allows it, using parts designed for drag cutting or a standoff guide takes away much of the guesswork. Keep the torch steady and at the height your manual describes.