WE HAVE SOME GREAT LIMITED-TIME OFFERS - CLICK HERE TO VIEW THEM WE SHIP WORLDWIDE    /    All UK ORDERS GREATER THAN £75 EX VAT DELIVERED FREE    /    WE SHIP WORLDWIDE    /    ALL EUROPEAN ORDERS GREATER THAN £500.00 ex VAT DELIVERED FREE    /    WE SHIP WORLDWIDE
    Share this page on Facebook   Share this page on LinkedIn   Share this page on Twitter   Share this page on Whatsapp   

    Rapid Ref : 9-8253  

    Cutting Tip 120A
    9-8253

    £8.70  EX VAT
    SSP Suggested Selling Price = £9.67  YOU SAVE £0.97

    TD SL60 & SL100 Hand Cutting Consumables FAQs

    Practical answers on choosing, fitting and looking after the consumable parts of a handheld 60 to 100 amp class plasma cutting torch.

    What is the difference between drag cutting and standoff cutting?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    In standoff cutting you hold the nozzle a set small distance above the metal. In drag cutting a shield or cap rests on the work and you slide the torch along it, which gives a steady height and is easier to control by hand.

    The parts differ. Drag parts have a shield designed to take contact, while standoff parts need a gap, which you keep by eye or with a standoff guide. If the gap is too large the arc spreads and loses power, and if too small, molten metal can bridge the nozzle and cause double arcing. Check your manual for the parts and current limits for each method.

    What does a standoff guide do?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    A standoff guide is a small attachment that fits on the front of the torch and sets the gap between the nozzle and the metal, so you can hold a steady height by resting the guide on the work. It helps with cutting straight lines and with consistent cut quality when hand cutting.

    It only suits standoff cutting. Do not use it with parts built for contact drag cutting, because the nozzle would then sit at the wrong height. Check that the guide you order is made for your torch type and the shield you are using.

    How do I know the cutting tip is worn?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    The tip, also called the nozzle, wears at its centre hole. A wider kerf, a thicker arc, more dross on the underside of the cut and less steady cutting often show that the hole has enlarged or gone out of round. Look at the hole with the parts removed: it should be round and clean.

    A tip that is damaged on its face or has had the nozzle touch the work will wear faster. Replace a worn tip rather than carrying on, because poor cuts and extra damage to nearby parts usually follow.

    How do I match the tip to the current I am cutting at?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    Each tip is made for a range of current. The opening size is chosen to suit that range, so use a tip rated for the current you set on the machine. Running more current than the tip is made for wears it out quickly, and using a much larger tip at low current can give an unstable arc.

    The tip, and the other parts in the stack, should be the set the maker lists for your current and cutting method. Check the data plate and the consumable chart in the manual before you order.

    Shop Similar Categories