Cooling units, cables, trolleys and add-ons for a water-cooled AC/DC TIG outfit: how to pick the right part and keep the cooled circuit healthy.
How do I choose and look after the ground cable?
Pick a cable and clamp rated for the current and duty cycle you will weld at, as stated in the manual, and make sure the connectors are clean, undamaged and correctly rated. The return clamp should be as near to the arc as possible, and welding and return leads should be insulated and thick enough to carry the current safely. Fix the clamp to clean bright metal, because rust or primer can cause overheating and arcing.
Check the cable, clamp and plug before use. A damaged or loose return lead can cause burns, stray arcs and shock, so replace damaged cable rather than patching it with tape.
What coolant should I use in the cooling unit?
Use only the coolant that the cooling unit maker specifies, which is chosen for its electrical conductivity, frost protection and material compatibility. Never mix it with other coolants.
Tap water is generally advised against, because minerals and algae can build up inside the torch and hoses. General automotive antifreeze is usually not recommended either, as it is not made for a small cooling loop. Check the level before welding while the system is cool, and follow the manual and the coolant safety data sheet when handling and changing it.
How do I choose the right cooling unit?
Match the cooling unit to the power source and the torch. Only approved system components should be connected to the cooling circuit, and the maker lists which cooling units suit which power sources, so check the manual or the data plate before choosing.
Check the options too. Some units have optional extras such as a flow and temperature sensor, a level sensor or a coolant filter, which may need to be specified for your set-up. Also check that the unit suits your torch and that it fits on your trolley. If you are unsure, our team can help you work out the right match before you order.
When does a TIG welder need a water-cooled torch?
Air-cooled torches are generally suitable for lower currents, and water-cooled torches are recommended for shop work at higher currents. Where the line falls depends on the torch rating and how long you weld continuously, so go by the rating on the torch and its duty cycle.
A water-cooled lead is lighter and more flexible, and consumables often last longer. The trade-off is that you need a cooling unit, coolant and extra hoses, and any leak must be repaired promptly. For light or intermittent work, an air-cooled torch is simpler.
How can I tell if torch hoses and the ground connection need replacing?
At every start-up, check that the hose packs, the welding torch and the ground connection are undamaged. Look for cuts, abrasions, exposed wires, cracked or bulging hoses, stiff or hardened hose, loose or corroded connectors and any dampness at joints. Components that are not in perfect condition must be replaced straight away.
In a water-cooled torch the power cable commonly runs inside the coolant return hose, so a fault can affect both the electrical and the water circuit. If you see damage, take the torch out of use and fit the replacement part that the maker lists for your torch.
What can stop the coolant flowing, and what does the flow monitor do?
Common causes are a low coolant level, a kinked or blocked hose, a dirty coolant filter, an air lock or a worn pump. At each start-up, watch for coolant returning to the container. If none returns, find and fix the cause before welding. Running water-cooled parts without coolant normally leads to failure of the system components.
Some cooling units have an optional flow sensor that watches the coolant flow during welding, and it can warn you and then interrupt the welding current if flow falls too low. It is a safeguard, not a substitute for checking. If a warning keeps appearing, stop and find the cause, and follow the manual.