Torches, necks, cables, adaptors, trolleys and other accessories for an AC / DC TIG inverter, and how to choose the right ones.
How do I know if my earth cable and clamp are right for a TIG inverter?
The return cable carries the full welding current back to the machine, so it needs to suit the machine's maximum current. The insulation on welding and return leads should be undamaged, the conductor thick enough to carry the current safely, and connectors clean, undamaged and rated for that current.
The circuit is out and back, so a long run adds resistance and voltage drop. Longer runs usually need the next cable size up, and the manual for your inverter normally gives the recommended size. Look for a plug that fits the machine socket snugly, a clamp rated for the current that grips firmly on clean bare metal, and undamaged insulation. Replace a damaged or underrated cable rather than taping it.
Should I choose an air-cooled or a water-cooled TIG torch?
Air-cooled torches are simpler, lighter to run and need no coolant, so they suit lighter work and shorter welds. Water-cooled torches carry extra hoses and need a cooling unit, but they are generally better for higher current and long welding periods because the coolant takes the heat away.
Look at the torch rating together with its duty cycle, which says what share of a ten-minute period it can run at a given current without overheating. A torch rated at a high current can have a much lower duty cycle than at a lower current, and the rating can differ between AC and DC. Check the current range and cooling method in your inverter manual and choose a torch that comfortably covers the work you do.
What does a TIG torch neck do, and why is it sold separately?
The neck, or torch body, is the part at the front of the handle that holds the collet, the collet body or gas lens, and the gas cup. Some torch handles are supplied without a neck so you can choose the style that suits the job.
Flexible necks can be set to the angle you need and help with limited joint access, though the flexing section may loosen over time. Rigid necks hold their angle and are generally preferred for repeat or precision work. Necks are matched to the torch series and connection type, so check the torch description and manual before ordering one, and match its current rating to the torch handle and the work.
How do I choose the right collet, collet body or gas lens?
These parts are sized to the tungsten electrode, so choose them to match the electrode diameter you use. A standard collet body releases gas through small holes, while a gas lens holds a mesh screen that spreads the gas into a smoother flow. That can help with coverage on corners and awkward joints and may allow a longer electrode stickout, though the benefit depends on cup size and joint shape.
Collets, bodies and lenses are also specific to the torch series, so a part for one series may not fit another. Check the series marked on your torch or in the manual, then match the size to your electrode. Check a gas lens screen now and then and clean or replace it if it is clogged or discoloured, and replace any parts that are worn or loose.
What is a gas-through adaptor and how do I know which connector I need?
A TIG torch is joined to the inverter by a power connector and a shielding gas connection. A gas-through adaptor passes the gas through the same connector as the current, while other arrangements use a separate gas hose. Torches and machines can use different connector and thread types, so an adaptor is sometimes needed to join them.
Before ordering, find out how your machine and torch connect: the size of the power socket, whether the gas goes through the connector, and the thread on the torch. Look in both manuals, or compare with the old parts. If the thread or connector does not match, do not force it. Our team can help you check.
Why is my arc unstable, and could the return cable be the cause?
Poor contact in the return path is a common cause of a wandering or erratic arc. A stumbling arc and hot cable connections are warning signs of resistance in the circuit. Check that the clamp is gripping clean, bare metal as close as practical to the weld, and that rust, paint or oxide are not getting in the way. Check that the plug is tight in the machine socket, that the clamp and cable are not warm, and that the cable is undamaged.
Other causes include a dull or dirty tungsten, worn torch parts, loose connections, too much or too little gas flow, or a draught across the weld. If the return path is in good order, work through these next and follow your machine manual.