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TD Cutmaster 10,12,20 & 25 Parts

SL 40 Parts FAQs

Answers on the start cartridge, shield cup, tips, electrodes and guide used on a light-duty hand plasma torch, and how to look after and choose them.

What does the start cartridge in a hand plasma torch do?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Many hand plasma torches use a contact (blowback) start. A spring-loaded part inside the torch holds the electrode against the nozzle. When gas flows, its pressure pushes the electrode back, the parts separate and a small arc forms between them, which becomes the pilot arc used to start the cut.

The start cartridge is the spring-loaded part that carries this movement, so it has to move freely. It sits between the electrode and the tip. How it is built differs between torches, so follow your manual.

How can I tell that the start cartridge needs replacing?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Because the cartridge has to move freely for the arc to start, signs of trouble are a torch that is slow or sticky to fire, an arc that sputters, or a part that feels stiff or gritty when you press it. Heat damage or debris inside it can also stop it moving.

These signs are only guidance, and other faults such as loose or wrongly fitted parts, damp air or a worn electrode can cause the same symptoms, so check those first. Fit a replacement when the cartridge is damaged or will not move freely, and follow your manual.

What does the shield cup do, and when should it be replaced?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The shield cup fits over the front of the torch and protects the other consumables from the molten metal and sparks thrown up during cutting. Slag on it can also upset the gas flow.

Check it each time you change parts. Remove any loose slag, and replace it if it is cracked, eroded, burned, has stripped threads or has gas holes you cannot clear. Check that it seats properly when refitted, because a poorly seated cup is a common reason for a torch not firing or cutting badly. Always let it cool first.

How do I make sure I choose the right parts for my torch?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Do not choose by appearance. Use the data plate on the cutter, the torch markings and the parts list in the manual to find the correct part numbers, then compare them with what is on the torch. Parts are usually matched to a particular torch design and current rating.

This matters most on a second-hand or refurbished unit, where the torch may have been changed. If the numbers on the old parts are worn off, our team can help you match them from the machine details.

Can I fit a new electrode with a worn tip?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

It is better not to. The electrode and the tip (nozzle) wear together, and maker guidance says to replace the nozzle at the same time when the electrode has to be replaced because of emitter wear. A new electrode in a worn tip tends to give poor cuts and wear quickly, and the reverse is also true.

If one part wears out first, change both at that point. Replace the start cartridge only when it shows its own signs of wear, as it lasts differently from the electrode and tip.

How do I check how worn an electrode is?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Switch off, let the torch cool, then remove the shield cup, tip and electrode. Look at the small insert in the electrode's end: it wears into a pit. Replace the electrode and tip if the pit is wide, uneven or rough, or has reached the depth limit your manual gives for that torch.

Makers set that limit by current rating and cut-quality needs, so do not rely on a figure from another torch. A pit gauge or a straight edge and a bright light help you judge depth. Drop in cut quality is another sign it is time to change.