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Spare lenses, gaskets, headgear, sweatbands and shell parts for an air-fed welding helmet, and how to choose and look after them.
The outer (cover) lens takes the spatter and sparks so the filter behind it does not. Replace it when it is pitted, scratched or too dirty to clean, because a damaged cover makes the weld harder to see and should not be left in place.How often depends on the work. Heavy spatter processes or grinding may need a change much sooner than light work, and there is no single fixed interval. Check it before every shift. Covers are usually specific to the helmet, so match the size and shape shown in your manual or on the old part before ordering a pack.
The filter lens is the dark glass that cuts the arc's light and ultraviolet and infrared radiation to a safe level. The outer lens is a clear, easily replaced sheet in front of it that protects it from spatter, pitting and scratching.The outer lens is meant to be changed often so the filter lasts. Some helmets also have a clear inner retaining lens behind the filter. A cover is not a substitute for a filter, and a filter must never be left out. Check your manual for which lenses your helmet uses and in what order they fit.
A higher shade number means a darker filter that lets less light through. Passive welding filters are graded by shade number, and the requirements now sit in a newer international standard series, which replaces the older European filter standard for new certification. Older helmets may still carry the older markings.The shade you need depends on the process and the welding current. Shade charts give higher shades for higher currents, with plasma cutting covering a wide range. A common tip is to start with a shade slightly darker than you think you need, and move lighter within the recommended range only if the weld pool is hard to see. Follow your helmet manual and risk assessment.
Filter lenses are made in set sizes, written as width x height in millimetres, so the replacement must match the size your helmet's holder was made for. Check the thickness and shade as well as the nominal size.Read the markings on the old lens and on the helmet. Helmet frames used to be covered by an older European standard, which has been replaced by a newer international standard series for new certification, so older helmets may still show the old marking. Lens markings show details such as the shade and manufacturer. If markings are worn off, use the helmet manual or measure the old lens, and ask our team if you are unsure.
The lens cradle is the frame or holder that the filter lens sits in inside the helmet front. The gasket is a thin seal that usually sits between the glass and its holder so the lens is held without rattling and without being stressed.If the helmet uses a gasket, it should be replaced periodically, and whenever it is flattened, torn or missing. Check that the lens sits flat and secure, with no gaps that could let stray light reach your eyes. Do not use a cradle that is cracked or deformed. Which parts your helmet has, and how they fit together, is shown in the manual's parts diagram.
The sweatband soaks up perspiration so it does not run into your eyes. Change it when it becomes unhygienic, worn or no longer cushions your forehead. There is no single fixed interval: it depends on how often the helmet is used and how hot the work is, so check it regularly and replace it sooner if it is dirty.If the manual allows it, some materials can be rinsed between changes. Replace the band once it is heavily soiled, as sweat can degrade the material and let the headgear slip. Sweatbands are normally made for a particular headgear, so check the fit before ordering a pack.