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    Rapid Ref : 420490  

    Hypertherm FlushCut Retaining Cap, for Duramax Hyamp Torch (85 - 125A)
    420490

    £91.20  EX VAT
    SSP Suggested Selling Price = £114.00  YOU SAVE £22.80
     Buy in 3 easy interest free payments of £30.40† with

    The FlushCut™ process for Powermax 125 systems provides users with the ability to cut closer to base materials than ever before.

    Reduce time-consuming and costly grinding.

    Close cutting for removing lugs and other attachments has typically been performed via oxyfuel cutting or carbon arc gouging, followed by labour-intensive grinding. FlushCut for Powermax plasma systems provides a new, more efficient process for challenging removal applications.

    The patented consumable design for FlushCut features an angled nozzle bore design which delivers the plasma arc at a 45° angle – essentially bending the plasma arc. This unique design gives Powermax users the ability to cut closer or more flush to the base than ever before which significantly reduces grinding and increases the opportunity to reuse pad eyes, attachments and other temporary weld supports.

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    Powermax 125 / Duramax Hyamp Parts FAQs

    Practical answers on the consumable parts for a high-current air plasma torch: gouging, fine-cut and drag-cut sets, wear checks and fitting.

    What is the difference between control-type and removal-type gouging shields?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    Makers usually split gouging sets into two styles. The control style is intended for precise metal removal, light washing and shallow gouges, and is generally the better choice while you are learning. The removal style is intended for aggressive metal removal, deep profiles and heavy washing.

    Torch angle, travel speed and current also change the gouge: moving faster gives a shallower, narrower groove, and moving slower gives a deeper, wider one. Match the shield to the work, and check the part description and your manual to confirm that the set suits your torch type and current range.

    How do I tell when an electrode is worn out?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    Normal wear shows as a small round pit forming in the centre of the electrode tip, which slowly deepens with use. When the pit becomes too deep the arc can attach to the copper holder instead of the emitting insert and damage it, so replace the electrode before it reaches the point where it will no longer start or hold the arc.

    The pit depth at which to replace depends on the maker and the current, so use the figure in your manual rather than guessing. A pit that is ragged, off-centre or very black can also point to a problem with the gas, so check your air.

    Should I inspect the retaining cap and its threads before cutting?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    Yes. Before use, look over the retaining cap for cracks, burn marks, deformation and excessive wear, and check the threads on both the cap and the torch body for dirt or damage. Replace the cap if it is cracked, has stripped threads, is badly pitted by spatter or no longer holds the consumables firmly in place.

    Tighten it by hand only, to the point the manual describes, and do not force it. A loose or damaged cap can let gas escape or the parts sit out of line, which shows up as poor cuts or sparking at the torch head.

    What are fine-cut consumables for?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

    Fine-cut sets are made for intricate, fine-featured shapes in thin sheet. They are designed to give squarer edges, tighter tolerances and a narrower kerf than standard parts, and they are normally used at the lower end of the machine's current range on mild and stainless steel.

    They are made for both hand and machine torches. On a machine table the result also depends on a rigid torch mount, good height control and a suitable cut speed. Maker guidance recommends a shield rather than a deflector for consistency and nozzle life, and expects small adjustments from one sheet to the next.

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