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Filter lenses, cover lenses, visor, headgear, sweatbands and seals for a flip-up welding helmet with a large lens window, and how to match each part to your helmet.
Start with the helmet's manual or parts list. A maker's parts list for this type of flip-front helmet shows the filter lens, cover lenses, flip visor and lens buckle separately for each lens window size, so you need to know which size you have. If you have no paperwork, measure the width and height of the old filter lens or window with a rule and compare both with the size shown for the new part.A lens that is only close can sit loose and leave gaps, so do not force or pack one into a frame it does not match. The same manual warns against using parts other than those it specifies. Our team can help you check a part against the markings on the old one before you order.
The filter lens is the dark glass that cuts down the arc's harmful ultraviolet and infrared radiation and its visible glare, according to its shade number. On a helmet of this type it sits between two clear cover lenses: an outer one that takes spatter and scratches, and an inner one behind the glass. A maker's manual says to refit them in the same order, so the glass stays between the outer and inner covers.The same manual calls the cover lenses consumables to be replaced regularly. The filter lens is a protective part in its own right, so never weld with it missing, cracked or chipped.
A fixed filter has one shade number, so it has to suit the process and the welding current you actually use. A higher number is darker. A maker's manual for this type of helmet gives a chart by process and amperage, and says that depending on the conditions the next higher or lower shade can be used. The damaging radiation is invisible, so the correct scale of filter must be chosen. The EN ISO 16321 series is replacing the older standards for new certification. Published charts differ a little, so use the one in your manual or procedure.If the arc is uncomfortable to look at, or you cannot see the weld pool at all, stop and check the shade against the guide. Your risk assessment has the final say.
Replace a cover lens when it is cracked, pitted, scratched or covered with spatter to the point that your view is impaired. A maker's manual says to inspect the helmet and lenses before each use and calls the outer and inner cover lenses consumables that must be replaced regularly. A maker's care sheet adds that more dirt, heat or sparks than normal mean parts need replacing more often.There is no single interval for everyone. High-spatter work and grinding use up outer covers fastest, so judge by condition rather than by the calendar. Clean with a soft cloth, never solvents, and refit the covers either side of the filter glass.
No. A maker's manual says scratched or damaged lenses must always be replaced, and that damaged surfaces reduce your vision and impair protection. A cracked or chipped filter may no longer protect your eyes as it should, so stop work and fit a replacement before you weld again. Do not try to repair it with tape or glue.When you order a new one, match the lens window size and the shade number, and check the markings on the lens are legible. Fit it between the cover lenses, which protect it, and make sure it sits flat in its frame with no gaps around the edge.
On a flip-front helmet the front section that holds the filter lens lifts so you can see the work clearly between welds. A maker's datasheet says a clear plastic lens in the shell then gives facial protection while the front is up. The filter only protects your eyes while the front is down, so flip it down before you strike an arc.The clear lens is not a substitute for eye protection suited to the task. A maker's manual warns that protectors worn over ordinary spectacles can transmit an impact to the wearer, and goggles are advised for chipping slag or wire-brushing welds. Follow the manual and your risk assessment for what to wear underneath.