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ESAB Cutmaster 40 SL60 Parts

ESAB Cutmaster 40 SL60 Parts FAQs

Torch consumables and small spares for a hand-held plasma cutter, and how to work out which ones you need.

Which parts of a plasma torch wear out, and which last longer?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The electrode and the cutting tip (nozzle) take the most wear, because the arc starts and runs through them. The electrode carries the current and has a small insert that slowly erodes. The nozzle shapes and constricts the arc. A swirl ring spins the gas around the electrode, and a shield or shield cup takes molten spatter and helps cool the tip. A retaining cap holds the stack together.

Swirl rings, retaining caps and the torch body usually last through several electrode and tip changes if they are kept clean. Which parts your torch uses depends on its design, so check the manual.

How can I tell that the electrode or tip is worn?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The first sign is usually poorer cuts: more dross on the underside, a wider or ragged cut, or a harder start. Looking at the parts confirms it. The electrode insert erodes and forms a small pit. A tip should be replaced if its hole is nicked, out of round or has rounded edges.

There is a pit depth at which the electrode should be changed, and the figure differs between torches, so use the limit in your manual. Running a worn electrode too long reduces cut quality and can damage the other consumables and the torch head.

Should I replace the electrode and tip together?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Yes, in most cases. The nozzle and electrode are best changed as a set, because a worn part spoils the performance of a new one and mismatched wear gives inconsistent cuts. When an electrode is replaced because its insert is worn, the nozzle should be replaced at the same time.

Check the other parts while the torch is apart. Swirl rings should be replaced if they are chipped, cracked or have blocked gas holes, and a damaged O-ring is a reason to replace its part. Follow your own manual if it gives a different pattern.

What does a start cartridge do, and does it wear out?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

In torches that use one, the start cartridge sits between the electrode and the tip, and the gas flows through it as the pilot arc lights between the electrode and tip. It is listed with the other torch parts to be checked and changed, and makers treat it as a consumable.

Heavy pilot arcing puts extra heat into the consumables, so avoid holding the pilot arc for long periods when you are not cutting. Cutting expanded or perforated metal also keeps the pilot arc running more. Look at the cartridge during each routine check and replace it with the rest if it is damaged or worn, as your manual describes.

How do I choose the right cutting tip?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Tips are rated for a range of current, so match the tip to the current you will cut at. Parts rated below your cutting current burn out quickly, and running at too high a current is a known cause of nozzle damage. A smaller hole gives a finer cut on thinner metal, and a larger opening suits thicker work.

Cutting and gouging use different tips, and manuals list the parts for each type of job, including the matching electrode, start cartridge and shield cup. Use the parts selection list for your torch rather than choosing by eye. If you cut at several current levels, you may need more than one type of tip.

When should I replace the shield cup or retaining cap?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Replace a shield cup or cap if it is cracked, eroded, has melted or missing areas, has damaged O-rings or threads, or if the centre hole is no longer round. Spatter and slag can sometimes be cleaned off if the part is otherwise undamaged, so clean it promptly, because built-up scale disturbs the gas flow and shortens the life of the tip.

Check that the threads are clean, as dirt can burn the cap or damage the threads over time. Fit only parts made for your torch, since mismatched parts are a recognised cause of early wear.