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Select from a range of grinding discs designed to be used on a variety of metal applications in multiple sizes of length and thickness.
All brands of our grinding discs are manufactured to the European safety standards and marked with EN12413.
Answers on how depressed-centre grinding discs and bench grinder wheels are built, chosen, fitted and used on steel, stainless steel and aluminium.
It is a reinforced, resin-bonded disc with a raised hub so the grinder's nut and flange sit below the face. It is used mainly on hand-held angle grinders to remove metal, for example taking down a weld, dressing a casting or bevelling an edge. The grinding face is used flat to the work at a modest angle.It is not a cutting wheel. Wheels for cutting-off are thinner and are a different type. Always check the markings on the disc for its approved use, maximum speed and any restrictions, and the manufacturer's instructions before fitting.
Discs for heavy grinding are normally reinforced with resin-coated woven glass fibre mat. The reinforcement lets the disc withstand the high stresses of hand-held grinding and helps hold fragments together if a disc does break.That is why only discs made for hand-held use, with the right bond and reinforcement, should go on an angle grinder. The reinforcement is not a reason to relax: the guard must always stay fitted, you must stay within the speed marked on the disc and the disc should be replaced if it is damaged. Do not try to use bench grinder wheels or other unsuitable wheels on a hand-held grinder.
No, not unless the disc is marked as suitable for both grinding and cutting. Grinding discs and cutting-off wheels are different types, made for different loads. A grinding disc is designed to work on its face, and loading it sideways in a cut risks cracking or breaking it.If you need to cut, use a reinforced cutting-off wheel approved for hand-held machines. Look at the markings on the disc for restrictions, which can include not for face grinding or not for hand-held cutting, and obey them. If in doubt, read the maker's instructions.
Hold the disc at a modest angle to the work, as the disc maker's instructions describe, and use light, steady pressure so the disc does not grab or kick. Let the grinder reach full speed before it touches the metal, keep it moving and hold it with both hands.Pushing hard does not speed things up much and risks overloading the disc, overheating the work and losing control. If a disc snags, switch off and let it stop fully before freeing it. Stay out of the line the grinder would travel if it kicked back.
Stainless conducts heat poorly, so heat builds up in the surface and can leave a blue or straw tint that is hard to remove and can reduce corrosion resistance. Use as little contact pressure as you can, keep the disc moving rather than dwelling in one spot, and avoid slow, heavy grinding.Use a disc made for stainless steel and replace a disc that has glazed or stopped cutting, as a blunt disc rubs and generates more heat. Where possible let the work cool between passes, or cool it. Check the markings and the maker's instructions for the metal you are working on.
Thickness is a trade-off. Thicker discs generally give longer life and suit heavy, aggressive work such as bevelling and weld removal. Thinner discs can be more manoeuvrable and suit lighter weld dressing, but they wear faster.The disc must always suit the grinder: the diameter, bore and the maximum speed marked on the disc must match the guard and the speed on the grinder's data plate. Do not choose by thickness alone, and do not remove a guard to fit a bigger disc. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the metal and the task.